A pre-winter roof check looks at the parts of the roof that the snow and the freeze test most: the gutters and downspouts, the flashing at walls and chimneys, the shingles at the eave, the attic venting and the overhanging limbs. The check is done from the ground where it is safe, and a technician completes the parts that need the roof surface or the attic.
Key takeaways
- Clear the gutters and the downspouts before the first freeze, so the meltwater can leave the roof edge.
- Check the flashing at walls and chimneys from the ground and, where safe, from the roof surface.
- Look at the attic for warm spots, frost and wet insulation that show heat is leaking into the roof.
- Trim overhanging limbs that could drop onto the roof or the gutters in a snow or wind event.
- Photograph the roof and keep a dated record, so the winter's changes can be compared in the spring.
- Arrange a technician's check for any part that cannot be looked at safely from the ground.
Why check the roof before the first freeze?
The first freeze is the point where a loose joint or a full gutter can do the most damage. A check before the cold arrives gives time to clear, seal and repair the parts the winter will test.
Once the snow has settled and the ground is frozen, the roof and the gutters are harder to reach. A roof that is safe to look at in the autumn may be unsafe to climb in the first snow.
The autumn check also sets a baseline. A set of dated photographs and notes made before winter lets the next check show what has changed, rather than relying on memory of how the roof looked.
The check also gives the homeowner a chance to ask questions while the weather is still mild. A roof walk on a dry, cool day is easier to explain, and a written note of the findings is easier to read before the snow arrives.
What should be cleared from the gutters and downspouts?
Leaves, grit and small debris should be cleared from the gutters and the downspouts before the freeze. A clear gutter lets the meltwater leave the roof edge, and a blocked one holds the water at the eave where it can freeze.
Clear the gutters from the ground where it is safe, using a ladder set on firm, dry ground with a helper if needed. Do not reach far off the ladder, and stop when the work becomes unsafe.
Check that each downspout drains to a point well away from the wall. A downspout that empties at the foundation can soak the soil and freeze there, and an extension may be needed to carry the water clear.
A simple calendar helps. Put the early clean-up, the pre-freeze check and the post-snow look in the same place as the other household tasks, so none of them is left until the snow has made the work harder.
A gutter that is cleared in the autumn may still hold water at a low spot, and that spot needs its slope corrected. Use a level along the run from the high end toward the downspout, and mark any low spot with a pencil so the technician can see it.
What to look for at the flashing and the sealant
Look for flashing that is lifted, bent or rusting at walls, chimneys and vents, and for sealant that is cracked or pulled away. These are the joints where a winter leak most often begins, and they are repaired before the freeze where possible.
From the ground, look for a gap at the top of the flashing, a rust streak below a vent or a sealant line that has shrunk. Binoculars from the ground can show detail that is hard to see at a glance.
Do not seal a wet joint. If a joint is damp, let it dry before any sealant is applied, and ask a technician to check it if the joint looks open.
How can the attic show what the winter will do?
The attic shows where heat is leaving the house and where moisture is entering the roof. Frost on the roof boards, wet insulation near the walls and warm spots near light fittings or the hatch all point to a plan that should be made before winter.
Look at the attic from the hatch with a light, without stepping off the joists. Note any frost, wet insulation or daylight near a penetration, and photograph it with the date.
Check that the soffit vents are clear of insulation and debris. Venting that is blocked at the eave stops the attic from staying close to the outdoor temperature, and that makes the roof more likely to melt the snow from below.
Check the attic hatch as well. A hatch that is not sealed or insulated lets warm air rise straight into the attic, and a gap around it is one of the cheapest things to fix before the cold arrives.
What about the trees and the limbs above the roof?
Overhanging limbs can drop onto a roof or into the gutters in a snow or wind event, and a limb that is already weakened is the more likely to fall. Trim the limbs that reach the roof or the wires, from the ground or by a qualified tree service.
A limb that rests on the roof adds weight and can crack the covering. A limb in contact with a power line is a job for the utility, not the homeowner.
Note any dead or split limb above the house, and have it removed before the snow arrives. The check is easier before the ground is frozen and the snow is on the branches.
Tree work near a power line belongs to the utility or to a qualified tree service with the right training. Do not climb a tree or use a chainsaw to clear a limb above a roof, since a fall or a kickback can cause serious injury.
What should be recorded before winter?
A dated record of the roof's condition before winter is the baseline for the next check. It should include photographs of each slope, the gutters, the flashing and any stain or defect seen, with the date and the weather.
Keep the record with the house papers, in one folder. The next check can then compare the roof with its condition in the autumn, and any change is easy to see.
If you have had repairs, note their location and date. A repaired joint is the place a winter is most likely to test again, and the record shows where to look.
Keep the record in a form that is easy to share. A set of dated photographs in a single folder, with a short list of the items to watch, is the record that a technician or an insurer can read quickly.
When should a technician check the roof?
A technician should check any part of the roof that cannot be looked at safely from the ground, any sign of stress or leak, and any roof with a history of winter problems. A pre-winter visit gives the technician time to repair the findings before the first freeze.
A visit can cover the surface, the flashing, the valleys and the attic in one trip. The findings are written with photographs, and each recommendation is given with its scope.
The visit is booked before the freeze if possible. A technician's time is harder to get once the first heavy snow has arrived, and a check that waits for the thaw can find more damage than one done earlier.
A technician can give a short verbal summary at the end of the visit, and then send the written findings. The summary helps decide what can wait and what needs to be done first.
How should the check be planned around the season?
Plan the check in three stages: a clean-up in the early autumn, a closer look at the attic and the flashing before the first freeze, and a short check after the first heavy snow. Each stage has a different job, and the three together cover the winter.
The early autumn stage clears the gutters, trims the limbs and removes leaves from the valleys. It is the stage that is easiest to do from the ground and the one least affected by the weather.
The stage before the first freeze is the closest look at the flashing, the eave and the attic. Anything found is repaired or recorded before the snow arrives, and the findings are dated so the next check has a reference point.
The short check after the first heavy snow looks for sag, new stains and any open joint the snow has tested. It is the first check of the winter that uses the roof as it actually is under load.
Frequently asked questions
How soon before winter should the check happen?
Before the first freeze is the best time. The gutters can be cleared, the flashing can be sealed and the attic can be checked while the weather is still mild.
Can I do the whole check myself?
Much of it can be done from the ground and the attic hatch. The roof surface and any part that needs a closer look should be left to a technician who can work safely.
What if I see a stain already?
Mark it with the date, cover any drip, and call for a visit. A stain before the freeze is a sign that a joint needs attention before the winter loads it.
Is a gutter guard worth fitting before winter?
A guard helps with leaves and debris, but it does not stop ice from building in a gutter that drains poorly. Clear the gutter and check the slope first.
Does a pre-winter check protect me from insurance problems?
A dated record of the roof's condition can help if a claim is made later. Whether a claim is covered is decided by the homeowner's policy and the insurer.
Should the attic be insulated before winter?
If the attic shows heat loss or frost on the boards, adding insulation and sealing gaps before the freeze is worth discussing with a technician. The plan depends on what the attic shows.
Is one check enough for the whole winter?
It is a good start, but a check after the first heavy snow and another after the thaw are useful. The more often the roof is looked at during the winter, the sooner a change is found.
This guide is general information for Oneida County homeowners, not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Prices are estimates. See our disclaimer.